|Estimated net time||5-7 hours.|
There are no easy routes to
Svartevasstinden, and most hikers will want the safety of a rope.
The steep west slope up to approximately 1200 metres is difficult but doesn't require a rope. Above this it gradually gets steeper and it is recommended to rope up at the top of the gully (where the grass ends). The section up to the saddle south of the summit offers easy climbing, with good hand holds. The section from the saddle and up to the short summit ridge is exposed and the climbing is a little more difficult.
|Drinking water||The path into the valley crosses several streams.|
|GSM coverage||Coverage throughout the route (June 2013).|
|Parking||Room for several cars at car park at Daugstadsetra, where the road ends. The car park is within a fenced area to protect cars from cattle.|
|Start height||452 metres|
|Vertical metres||830 metres for the roundtrip|
|Trip distance||9.7 km|
From Ålesund drive road E39 to Sjøholt and continue across Ørskogfjellet. Leave E39 onto E136 and drive 7.8 km to Tresfjord, to where the road starts to turn north (just before the exit to Øvstedal). Continue on E136, and start measuring from here:
- At 4.9 km turn right where signed for "Daugstadsetra".
- At 5.5 km fork left just before a small bridge.
- At 5.6 km turn right.
- At 5.8 km pay toll in unmanned toll booth (NOK 40 per 2013).
- At 9.5 km park on the right hand side at the car park close to the end of the road, inside the fenced area.
From the car park follow the wide path up to the cabins. Turn a little right and skirt around the cabins on the right hand side, where you find red paint on the fence poles. Continue south-east into the valley, following the red paint. Walk approximately 3.4 km from the car park, and then turn left into the bush. Find your best route up to the gully coming down from Svartevasstinden's summit, which means a bit of bush fighting.
The first part of the gully can be ascended on either side or inside it, but higher up it's best to stay on the left hand side. At approximately 1100 metres you should cross the gully and continue uphill on the right hand side. This is approximately where a small ridge comes down into the gully and splits it in two, with the left gully consisting of nice slab steps. But stay right up to the next ridge splitting the gully, and this time choose the left gully, which will take you up to the top of the gully below the summit. Note that it gets a little steeper at the very top of the gully and care should be shown if the vegetation is wet.
From the top of the gully there are two options, at least; you can traverse a grassy ledge across to the left and then climb up, or you can climb straight up to the saddle to the right of the wall coming down from the summit and then up the wall. This route description assumes you go for the latter option. This means you should rope up at the top of the gully and climb easy terrain straight up. There are plenty of good hand holds, but be aware that some of the hand holds are loose stones. From the saddle turn left and climb the wall just south of the summit. This climb is definitely more difficult than the section below, and there's a considerable exposure. The general advise is that you're likely to find the easiest route if you stay right of centre. When the wall has been climbed there's a 15 metres walk to the summit, which is marked by a small cairn.
Descend by reversing your ascent route, which means an abseil down to the top of the gully you came up.
19. June 2013
My colleague Mark was in Norway this week, and with him being a climber I wanted to take advantage of his skills, as well as offering him something more than a walk, on this dry Wednesday evening. We set off from Ålesund centre after work, at 16:30, and were ready to start our hike at Daugstadsetra at 18:10.
When we walked into the valley from Daugstadsetra we were unhappy to see some mist coming drifting in from south, and our main concern was related to finding the correct gully up to below the summit. Fortunately the mist didn't hit the lower sections before we had found the correct gully, and after the section of bush we had to find our way through we had a fairly clear view of which gully to choose.
The walk up along the gully was easier than I had expected, but the ice axe was handy at the very top of the gully. From here we had two options; straight up or left along a ledge and then a likely easier climb. I knew what I would choose, but I realised Mark would like as much challenge as possible so I asked him to decided what route to choose. As expected he wanted to climb the most difficult of the two options, and climbed all the way up to the summit ridge. Dead easy! I, however, had problems. The climb up to the saddle was fairly easy and definitely enjoyable, from the last section caused major difficulties. And around half-way up the steep section I had serious problems. First of all I was able to find any proper hand holds, and my second issue was that my fingers were starting to get cold. At one point I understood that I only manage one more attempt at a specific move, and I seriously composed myself for this final attempt. Fortunately this was successful, and the rest of the climb was fairly straight forward.
From the top of the climb, where Mark was waiting, it was an easy scramble along the summit ridge to the small summit cairn. Unfortunately the mist was still sitting around the tops so the views were very limited.
After a short summit stop we prepared for the descent. This started with an abseil down the route we had climbed a little earlier, and the upper part turned out to push my tolerance for exposure. The issue wasn't the steepness of the abseil, but the fact that the wall I was abseiling was only a couple of metres wide, and I was definitely not keen on swinging out on either side of the narrow wall. Hence I abseiled very carefully, and was much relieved when I got down to the saddle. The rest of the abseil, down to the gully, was easy and without any issues. Mark then followed, and probably used a tenth of the time I had used ...
When Mark joined me down at the top of the gully we had to pull down the rope before stowing away the climbing gear. But the rope jammed a little below the saddle so Mark had to climb back up a little in order to release the rope. This cost us a little time, but I suspect this was also partly fine with him since it allowed him a little more scrambling.
The rest of the descent was uneventful, and we found an OK route down through the bush by following what was probably a dry creek. Then the relatively boring walk back to the car, getting there a little before midnight. I then had to drive Mark back to his hotel in Ålesund, and finally got home well after 1 am, but enjoying every moment of the drive based on what I had achieved this misty evening. And thanks to Mark for getting me up to the summit of Svartevasstinden, and for super company throughout the hike.